Water Filtration Info
See pimaginside.pdf for details on the four stages a pimag water filter has...  This info is somewhat technical and in the end what we sell water that tastes really good, is really good for us, and is cost competitive (and better) than bottled water.


A lot of this info was condensed from www.osmonics.com, an industrial filtration company.

What does carbon filtration do?
With drinking water, every consumer expects to obtain a product free of color and odor, two aesthetic qualities of this vital fluid. Color in water can be primarily attributed to organic materials in the water, although many metal ions may also tint the water. The human nose can detect odors down to the parts per billion level and is the most sensitive odor-detecting device available. Activated carbon will adsorb many of the dissolved organics which give color to drinking water, eliminate chlorine or other halogens, and absorb the odors present.
Activated carbon is a very mature technology that is designed to help remove taste and odor from water through adsorption of the compounds that cause problems.
There are a variety of different types of carbon that are used industry-wide. They include wood,  lignite, coal, and coconut as the most common sources for activated carbon.
Activated carbon operates through adsorption. Adsorption is a surface phenomenon and is therefore directly related to the surface area of the media. In the case of activated carbon, the  surface area is related to the pore structure of the raw materials. The cost of the media is also related to the raw materials, so there are other factors that must be taken into consideration besides the total surface area. (note the various types of carbon and the large surface area of our multistage carbon filters). One concern of carbon filters is bacteria build-up (since they remove the chlorine that kills bacteria)... this concern is minimized by having good flow rate through the filters, by periodically changing the filters, and by having a final filter unit of small enough size to minimize/prevent passage of bacteria.
Adsorption takes place due to intramolecular attraction between the carbon surface and the substance that is being adsorbed. The force of the attraction can be altered by increasing the density of the carbon or by reducing the distance between the carbon surface and the substance being adsorbed (typically by reducing the median pore size). As the fluid (often water) passes over and through the carbon, the attractive forces between the compounds that are the most attracted to the carbon are adsorbed onto the surface. The compounds that are the most highly attracted are typically organic compounds (which can cause taste, odor and appearance  problems), volatile organic compounds (VOCs) and halocarbons such as trihalomethane (THM) compounds and other process wastes.
Return
Particle Filtration:
Our filter uses the best available "conventional" filtration. This level of microfiltration can be done with household water pressure and typical sink flow rates and no wasted water. See the drawing below for an illustration of levels of filtration.

Return
R/O,  Distillation, and Ion bed exchange (deionization):
These methods filter out "sub-particlulate" materials. Our system does not use these methods. These methods remove almost everything from the water... in effect making the water "dead" water with few of the healthy minerals that normally are provided to us from the earth.
Distillation, evaporation and preferential adsorption using ion exchange are becoming less and less common because they are expensive from both a capital and operating cost standpoint and also inefficient.  The ionic range consists of particles that range in size from 0.002 µm and below. Particles in this size range include aqueous salt, metal ion, and smaller particles of sugars, synthetic dye and endotoxins/pyrogens. To filter particles of this size or to reduce inorganic salts (e.g. sodium, alkalinity), reverse osmosis systems are used.  Reverse osmosis "filters" most inorganic salts from water by allowing only the water to pass through the pores. It will pass smaller organics (VOC's) such as ethyl alcohol (mw = 46).
Distillation and deionization are other means of removing impurities at the ionic level. Deionization or ion exchange systems consist of a tank containing small beads of synthetic resin. The beads are treated to selectively adsorb either cations or anions and exchange certain ions based on their relative activity compared to the resin. This process of ion exchange will continue until all available exchange sites are filled, at which point the resin is exhausted and must be regenerated by suitable chemicals. Deionized water is reserved for use in industry, such as semiconductor industry, due to expense and maintenance requirements.
Distillation is the collection of condensed steam produced by boiling water. Most inorganic contaminants do not vaporize and, therefore, do not pass to the condensate or distillate. However, VOC's (volatile organic compounds) in particular will be passed.
Deionization and distillation are becoming less common because they require high amounts of chemicals and energy which respectively  leads to high costs.
Return

Hook up under the sink with separate faucet 

Note that new deluxe pimag has all the parts needed for under the sink install included and the following would be for reference only- for guidelines on how to do plumbing or if you have the older version pimag countertop!  I've been thinking about a three way valve that shut off pressure to the undersink filter... well Harry Dolden has done more than think about it. He's found a source and put it together- as far as I'm concerned this is the only way to do an undercounter install and minimizes possible flooded kitchens! Harry & Kay Dolden hkdolden@tahoemail.net,  
Call (530) 581-0534 and here are photo's of this type of valve... 

Here is how it works...

It's a three way valve... when it's off it blocks the water pressure- no pressure to the filters, when valve is actuated then water goes thru the valve to the water filter, gets filtered and back up through the valve and out of the dispense neck- The water filter is normally not pressurized- until you flip the dispense valve.

ps: disclaimer    we are not responsible for flooded kitchens! Firstly, It is recommended not to do this unless you know what you are doing or get a plumber... any minor problem can cause major water damage since the water will keep coming... and coming... and coming!   water flooding is not good!  
What convinced me of the seriousness of this is what happened to a neighbor (in a brand new house)... using a non N_ _ _ _ _ water filter. They had replaced the water filter and didn't fully tighten, or over-tightened and cracked it??... it seemed OK... but had a small leak... over the hours it added up or maybe the leak got bigger... the next morning they found their kitchen and adjoining 1st floor flooded... a week of disaster recovery- fans and vacuums and such and they still ended up having to replace their wooden floor.

What you will need ( I used):


Preparation for assembly:

You will need to determine if you can use an existing hole on your sink or drill a hole to mount the faucet. If you need to drill a hole first determine where you want to mount the faucet. Remember porcelain is very difficult to drill. It chips very easily so try to use something that already exists. Stainless Steel sink should be no problem.
Once you have the hole drilled, mount the faucet per directions for the faucet. You can get what ever type you want.
Next determine where you want to mount the saddle valve. It should be under the sink near where you will be placing the PIMAG. and mount the valve on the pipe, but do not pierce the pipe just yet. You want to wait until you get the tubing connected.
Now this next step is the installation of the tubing. You can use the existing tubing that came with the PIMAG, but you will have to separate the two tubes in order to reach the saddle valve and faucet. If this is the way you go, you must be very careful not to nick the tube when splitting them. I did, it did not leak right away but after about 7 hours it start to spray water everywhere and flooded the kitchen. The tubing that comes with the filter is very soft and easily damages with a knife.
I suggest you remove the existing tube and install the ones I suggested above.
To remove the existing tube, take the cover off the PIMAG. you will see two tubes one on the top of each side filter unit. Unscrew the plastic nuts and pull the tubing out when nut has been completely loosened. You will probably have to cut the tubing just behind the nut to remove the nut and reuse it for the new 1/4" tubing you will install. Take one of the tubes, put on the nut, then the plastic ferrule and then insert the brass insert. Once that is done stick it in the top of the filter and secure the nut until it is tight. NOTE Do not over tightened; you can strip the plastic threads. Repeat for the second location. Make sure you route the tubing out the bottom of the filter.
Mark one tube as the inlet tube with a marker or tape to make sure you connect the tubes to saddle valve (input) or faucet (outlet). the PI filter is the inlet side of the filter and the other end should be on the saddle valve. The UF filter is the outlet and the other end should be connected to the faucet.
Now mount the other end of each tube to saddle valve and faucet. Follow directions that came with the items except make sure you are using the plastic ferrule. Make sure all connections are tight.
Now you are ready to pierce the pipe with the saddle valve. Turn the valve in and continue as per instruction. When you turn it all the way down you have made a hole in the copper pipe and don't have any water flow to the filter. You will have to turn back the valve and that will allow water into your filter. You might want to open the valve to purge the air as instructed in the filter user manual.
Now you have it. Check for leaks and tightened as needed. Check again for leaks some hours later. If you don't want to do it yourself, you can get a plumber to do it for you and someone who is handy.

Enjoy your living water. Don Demers

Hook up Pimag countertop to existing spray hose type faucet
 Like me, many people have a faucet that pulls out from its mounting and has a button you push for the spray mode. Ours is made by Moen. Go to Home Depot, for example, and buy an adapter. Master Plumber, model #404, found in the plumbing parts aisle at Home Depot, makes the adapter.  It worked for mine and others I have installed when loaning my sample filter unit.  Use it instead of the one that came with the filter unit.

 To Install:
 Contrary to what your plumber may think, the silver colored aerator (the part of your faucet where the water comes from) unscrews even on those fancy pullout sprayer faucets. Swivel it so it faces up and look at it  closely. You'll see 2 flat sides on the round aerator. Using a wrench or gently with pliers, unscrew it by applying your tool to the flat sides and remove it and its
washer. Screw your new adapter on in its place. Then screw on your filter hose attachment.
 You will not lose any of the functions of your faucet.
 According to the directions with the adapter, if your faucet has an inside thread, you need to use BOTH washers that come with this adapter or it will leak a bit. You want to read the directions so you set it up properly.
 If your faucet head is not the same as mine, there are 4 or 5 different sizes of adapters available at Home Depot so you may have to buy one of each and return what doesn't work. Or you can turn off your water supply to your tap, (or whole house if necessary), unscrew the part of the sprayer that you hold in your hand, (take steps to ensure the hose does not retract into the tap, tie it in a knot, for example) and take this with your filter to the store and try on a few adapters. That's what I did.
 I bought a few adapters to have on hand and sure enough, my first customer needed one and I was able to set up my loaner unit with ease and very impressively, I might add!!
If you live in Canada, the pkg I have is made by Master Plumber, with the item #ULN 404. It says adapter adds garden hose threads to 15/16" inside or 55/64" for outside threaded faucets. It comes from Master Plumber, Brantford Ontario, N3T 5N9. The SKU (barcode) is 7349700594. That's all that is on the package. Try Home Depot (or perhaps a plumber). That's where I found it.
If you live in the USA, Walmart, Target, Taylor, Sutherland Lumber, Sutherland Supplies, Supply House, Sunrise Build and Grow, and Home Depot were names given to me by Master Plumber.
Note that there are several sizes of adapters and faucets available besides the 404 so you need to know the exact size needed. This one worked for me with a Moen faucet but may not work for you.
Some of the brands people are asking me about are unfamiliar to me. Perhaps they are only available in the USA.
 Hope this helps.
 Elizabeth Quinn
Return

Water containers- what do the plastics #'s mean? Which is best to use?
There has been some concern about leaching of containers... in my opinion as a materials scientist, food grade plastics would have so little leaching that such concern is miniscule in comparison to our everyday environment... such as walking down a street full of cars.  Our bottles are food grade plastics.. and we have used the large water containers (milk jug variety) to transport water. The plastic # is not a criteria for food grade plastics.... but rather a designation of plastic types to help recycling. Here is what the codes mean from  http://www.tnrcc.state.tx.us/oprd/rules/pdflib/328h.pdf
(d)  The numbers, letters of the symbols, and the plastic resins represented by the symbols are:

                   (1)  1 and PETE, representing polyethylene terephthalate;
                   (2)  2 and HDPE, representing high density polyethylene;
                   (3)  3 and V, representing vinyl;
                   (4)  4 and LDPE, representing low density polyethylene;
                   (5)  5 and PP, representing polypropylene;
                   (6)  6 and PS, representing polystyrene; and
                   (7)  7 and OTHER, representing all other resins, including layered plastics of a combination of materials.

so #7 is actually the most nebulous of all... Realize that food grade plastic come in various types of plastics (LLDPE, PVC, PP, vinyl, and more) and thus the food grade certification is the important part. Some say that polycarbonate which is in the "other" #7 category is one of the best food grade plastics.
Containers can come from old water/milk jugs, local stores, plastic companies such as Industrial Container Corp , vendors such as Blue Ribbon , or others
Return

-->